This iconic British meal survived WWII. Today’s war may kill it

The United Kingdom’s fish-and-chip shops are under severe strain as the prices of key ingredients — including cod and cooking oil — soar as a result of the Russian assault on Ukraine.

Within the next nine month, up to a third of the nation’s approximately 10,000 fish and chip restaurants could be closed. saidAndrew Crook, president of National Federation of Fish Friers. He said that the crisis was the worst he has ever seen.

The trade group, which represents over 1,200 fish-and chip businesses, has been operating for more than 100 years.

Crook is the owner of his own shop. said prices started rising toward the end of last year, but the costs of staple ingredients have shot up since late February, when Russia invaded Ukraine.

Crook stated, “Across the board everything’s gone up.” said.

All industries are experiencing high prices due to supply chain disruptions that have been exacerbated in the aftermath of the war in Ukraine. The dependence on Russian imports is causing a special squeeze for British fish and chip shops.

About 40% of the industry’s cod and haddock comes from Russian waters and half of its sunflower oils is imported from Ukraine. Crook said.

Crook reports that sunflower oil is being purchased by 83% more businesses than in March. Crook reports that the price of palm oil has more than doubled. Indonesia — the world’s biggest exporter of palm oil — started to restrict exports last month to help maintain domestic supplies.

Adding to the pain are eye-watering energy bills and rocketing prices for fertilizer needed to grow potatoes.

Fish and chips is a British national dish. According to the trade group the first shops opened in the early 1860s. The country’s industrialization helped spread the concept quickly and fed factory workers. The importance of the dish was important to the working class during World War II when the government restricted staples like tea, butter, fish, and meat.

Crook expects fish and chips to cost less than the prices they are used to, says Crook said. A year ago, the average price for a regular cod and chips would be about £7, Crook said. Now, he estimates it’s around £8.50 — a 21% increase.

Crook said, “We are at risk of pricing ourselves out…we’re trying keep increases as low possible.” said. Some have already turned their backs.

He added, “I’ve lost some of my regular customers that used come every Friday.”

Fears that the UK government will impose harsh import tariffs on Russian white fish have pushed businesses to stock up on alternatives, further jacking up the price of the Icelandic and Norwegian fish that Crook buys.

The price of a case of Icelandic cod is now £270 ($331), up from £140 ($176) this time last year, Crook said.

Businesses like Crook’s face the uphill task of selling fish and chips to customers facing the worst cost-of-living crisis in decades. According to the Bank of England, annual consumer price inflation reached 7% in March. This was its highest level for 30 years and could reach 10% this year.

There are more than half a billion small businesses in the UK — that’s about one in 10 — plan to shut, downsize or sell up in the next year as many struggle to secure financing, according to a survey by the Federation of Small Businesses.

Crook’s shop’s fate is his own.

It’s more than a job. Many of us have taken over family businesses,” he said. said. “I’m second generation in the business — and you don’t want it failing on your watch.”